super charger gearbox

[bill hulme]

Manual Gearbox and driveshaft's required.
Bill Hulme 078 127 387 64

[coverco]

Do you need a charger gearbox Bill? Surely any manual box and shafts will be OK.

[autobody]

I have a pair of outer shafts (not sure that the right name for them) any way here is pic:

http://www.mr2mk1club.com/images/imported/2013/12/DSCF2443_zps371725dd-1.jpg (http://s261.photobucket.com/user/autobody321/media/DSCF2443_zps371725dd.jpg.html)

I also have a spare gearbox (non lsd) which is usable but has 3rd gear issue (pops out)

[bill hulme]

Do you need a charger gearbox Bill? Surely any manual box and shafts will be OK.

Yes I need a good super charger gearbox, I have a normal one, that I have put the 5th gear modification in, Will it be OK
with a Super charger engine.

[phaeton]

Bill,

If you need a good standard gearbox I have one here you can have.

Alan...

[autobody]

NA box will be fine on the sc engine. It's lighter too.

[coverco]

I am a bit confused here (doesn't take much). I thought your car was a normal N/A automatic Bill, if it is then surely a standard box with or without the 6th gear mod should be OK.

[Station]

What is this? 6th gear mod?! I was getting a bit fed up of doing 5000rpm at 70mph. Is this this really possible?

[Station]

http://www.woodsport.org/joomla/index.php/engine-conversions/50-lsd-gearbox/21-lsd-gearbox

http://www.marcmedina.com/6speed.html

[bill hulme]

I am a bit confused here (doesn't take much). I thought your car was a normal N/A automatic Bill, if it is then surely a standard box with or without the 6th gear mod should be OK.

Hi I have just got a super charger engine wiring loom and manual ecu,
Bill.

[The Silver Fox]

Station,

Paul Woods did the 5th gear mod on my 1a gearbox earlier this year. On the journey to Tatton and back in August, which for the exception of a few miles at either end was all motorway, I got a relatively quiet drive and 48mpg! :D

[bill hulme]

the 5th gear modification,
WOODSPORT 5th GEAR CONVERSION
Following an article by Paul Woods about a 5th gear upgrade for a MR2Mk1, I have now managed to find the right gears to complete the conversion. These referance numbers are from a Carina E 1.8 1996/97. I gave Toyota the chassis number of this car, and these are the gear numbers they provided, with the current prices.
5th driven- 33428-12100 - £88.19 plus Vat (29 teeth)
5th gear- 33036-12160 - £115 plus Vat (40 teeth)
I searched through lots of gear boxes from scrapped cars and eventually I found one with 29/40 teeth on the gears.
The car on which I eventually found the gears was a Carina E 1.8 Reg R701GFV The 1800 was only made for about 2 years (1996 to 1997 approx). If you find one of these cars, be sure to take the back cover off the box so that you can count the gears before purchasing. I found several gearboxes that looked the same but contained different gears. (Toyota do not put a reference type on the gear box to show whether it is a C51, C52, or C53 etc. My gears came from a C51, which I only know because this was the gearbox registered with the car.)
The gears are very tight to remove from the shafts, and you will need gear/bearing pullers to do this. A three-legged puller would work for withdrawing the syncromesh mechanism which is very tight on the splines. The main nut on the drive shaft needs a 27mm socket to undo it. Turning this nut just turns both gears, so you will need to jam the two gears together. I used a piece of V pulley belt end on, letting it jam between the gears while loosening the nut. With enough pressure you should be able to persuade the nut to ride over the indent that secures the nut in place.
Next remove the circlip at the front of the synchromesh operating mechanism that holds it in place. The gear at the back of this mechanism is on needle roller bearings in 2 halves and slides off with the hand. You will now need a different puller to withdraw the main drive gear, ensuring that this engages in the rim on the top of the gear. Positioning the puller under the teeth will usually result in damaging the teeth. On my puller I had to grind the left hand side to miss the the other shaft.
When you start the conversion, (assuming you are working with the gearbox in situ) you will need to do the following:
Jack up and support the car with axle stands so that you can then use the jack to support the gearbox.
Drain off gear oil
With the engine and gearbox supported, undo and remove the two centre engine supports
Then undo the support on the gearbox end.
Lower the jack gradually an inch or two to give full access to the end of the gearbox and remove the 9 bolts (12mm deep socket). Then use a hammer to remove the end cover, by hitting the protruding lugs
Remove the selector fork with its activation ring (10mm spanner)
Re-assembly is the reverse of these steps. Replacing the gears will require a fair amount of force i.e a drift and hammer or a deep socket for them to be properly located. It may it advisable to purchase a new locking nut (27mm) from Toyota (£4.80), since it has probably been damaged when it was removed.
If you have any questions please either telephone (01204... 578147) or email me at bill.hulme@ntlworld.com
This took me 6 hours to complete. Don't forget to refill the box. It is a well worthwhile conversion, reducing the top gear revs by at least 450 rpm at 70 mph (27000 revs per hour) and is still usable as a normal 5th gear.
I must emphasise that this is merely a personal account of the steps I took to convert my gearbox, and I cannot be held responsible for any consequences of your following the same process.
Bill Hulme 13th of April 2010